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Does Anyone Know Anything About Car Audio.


Brown Town B

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i want to get good sound in my 1995 ford taurus. im leaning in two directions:

 

1. getting a new head unit, new front speakers, and new rear speakers (can be done cheaply -- ~$350)

 

or

 

2. getting new head unit, new front speakers, a sub in the trunk, and an amp (~$500)

 

do you guys think going with the sub and amp would be that big of an upgrade over just the new speakers only? i will only be keeping this car until august, however muysic is very important to me. i will only listen to I.D.M.

 

ty for reading

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depends on the economics. you're investing for what is basically just a 6mth period with no return - you won't get any added resale value difference between the 2 options. so... you're really talking about $150 here - between option 1 and 2. If you can afford to write off $150 over the next 6mths for the pleasure of having the sub in the back, then it sounds like the obvious way to go is the latter, if not - then stick to the cheapest option.

 

a car being what it is - ie a completely shit acoustic environment with a combination of badly positioned reflective (glass) and absorbant (upholstery) surfaces - you need to approach it in a much more crude manner than designing a system for a fixed dedicated environment like say a studio or living/listening room. So the steroids approach is justified if you're after loudness and obvious frequency range right down to 20Hz-80Hz. So a bigass sub in the boot is worth it, especially if your ride is loud at the best of times when in motion (vibration, road noise, engine, etc).

 

The improved amp will give you better headroom and clarity out of the midrange speakers on your front doors and improved stereo field with the addition of the rear parcel midranges (6x9s would be good, though with the sub a pair of 6" co-axials or Alpine do a good 5x7 speaker that my mate used in his mk2 golf - will do the job just fine).

 

basically up to you, me personally - i'd just go for option 1 - not a big fan of subs and don't think its a real moot point if you mainly listen to eye dee emms. Some nice front and back drivers and new head unit sounds like it will do the job for 6mths and then you can either rip out for next car or just let them go when you sell on or trash it.

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Guest abusivegeorge
depends on the economics. you're investing for what is basically just a 6mth period with no return - you won't get any added resale value difference between the 2 options. so... you're really talking about $150 here - between option 1 and 2. If you can afford to write off $150 over the next 6mths for the pleasure of having the sub in the back, then it sounds like the obvious way to go is the latter, if not - then stick to the cheapest option.

 

a car being what it is - ie a completely shit acoustic environment with a combination of badly positioned reflective (glass) and absorbant (upholstery) surfaces - you need to approach it in a much more crude manner than designing a system for a fixed dedicated environment like say a studio or living/listening room. So the steroids approach is justified if you're after loudness and obvious frequency range right down to 20Hz-80Hz. So a bigass sub in the boot is worth it, especially if your ride is loud at the best of times when in motion (vibration, road noise, engine, etc).

 

The improved amp will give you better headroom and clarity out of the midrange speakers on your front doors and improved stereo field with the addition of the rear parcel midranges (6x9s would be good, though with the sub a pair of 6" co-axials or Alpine do a good 5x7 speaker that my mate used in his mk2 golf - will do the job just fine).

 

basically up to you, me personally - i'd just go for option 1 - not a big fan of subs and don't think its a real moot point if you mainly listen to eye dee emms. Some nice front and back drivers and new head unit sounds like it will do the job for 6mths and then you can either rip out for next car or just let them go when you sell on or trash it.

 

Internets most useful reply 31/01/09.

 

All of the above makes perfect sense, except if you do go down the sub route, you will need to get the amp as well for clarity from speakers.

 

 

 

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