TubularCorporation

Of the 13 there, 6 are pretty much broken (but 5 might be repairable), one probably just needs belts, and 6 more are in OK shape but have seen a lot of use. So it's not quite as exciting as it looks. As far as stacking them, that's what they call vertical organization.

https://capi-gear.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=87_89_182&products_id=568

I found another Teac in the trash today, which puts me at something like 12 fully working cassette decks in the apartment right now and maybe twice as many that have issues (not all of them are mine though, but maybe 3/4 are). Probably going to trade or sell the Teac to cover some of the $100 I owe for my half of the big Marantz haul form a couple weeks ago: . But I don't listen to cassettes at all, just record on them.

If only.

I could probably manage the hardware OK - it's all of the shelf stuff - but I'm a hack with PD.

From about 2009 to 2016 I did that (MPC2000xl as the studio hub, with a rack of 90s digital gear and a couple keyboards), it was a lot faster and I usually had better ideas. The only reason I'm using a DAW as more than a stereo recorder again is that I got sick of not having a proper mixer (everything was going through a little 1u line mixer with no EQ and one aux) and I don't have the space or money for one, so I started multitracking again out of necessity and my mixing has improved but I hardly finish anything and most of it is a lot less interesting than what I did when I didn't use any gear made after 2002 or so. Since I'm using that Presonus Studiolive as an interface now, what I should probably do is get a cheap Wal Mart tablet hook it up to my router so I can use it as a standalone mixer and record direct to stereo on its internal recorder, that seems like a good compromise between having some control of the mix but still committing to recording everything in a single pass.

The stuff with slightly delaying the mid or side with Voxengo Sound Delay is something I already worked out on my own years ago, but I never thought of using a highpass in M/S specifically for its phase shift, much less the allpass filter thing. The actual main subject of the video isn't really relevant to me because I don't do LCR mixes anyhow.

13:30 is extremely clever.

I'd love to use an Atari but I don't have a monitor.

I just made three skillet pizzas.

I've had a bunch of 80s and 0s Yamaha hear get intermittent jacks, in fact I think the first repair I ever did was to stuff bits of paper around the edge of the jack on the Yamaha PSS140 I got for Christmas as a kid when it went intermittent within a year. Seems to be an issue that's common with the cheaper Yamaha stuff from that period, more than, say, Casio. The solution is almost always to just reheat the solder joints, I don't know if it's the PCBs, the actual jack, the solder they were using or something else, but they go cold a lot. If you have a soldering iron with a tip that's in OK shape it should be a 5 minute fix. If you look at the power jack in the thumbnail image on that video you'll notice the legs on it are straight. Most modern PCB mount power jacks have legs that are more hook shaped so they sort of snap onto the PCB and hold themselves in place, rather than all of the mechanical strength coming from the solder alone. The Yamaha keyboards I've fixed all have straight legged jacks like in the thumbnail and I think that's the problem. Like seriously, out of all the 80s/90s consumer Yamaha instruments I've tried I think more than half had intermittent power jacks. The Alesis Wedge s notorious for that, too. Just something about the design or the parts used makes the solder joints on the power jack get stressed more than they should be and the go cold a lot (that's how I got my Wedge for $18). If it seems appropriate maybe you should record a video of it happening and see if the seller will refund maybe 10% for the hassle of repairing it.

Given the trajectory Pyle took after it was sold a couple years later, it's a decent metaphor really.

I suck at keyboard so I saved up all through 2018 and bought myself a Linnstrument in 2019. If I HAVE to use a keyboard I've got a Korg 130 arranger keyboard that I found at a thrift shop for $50 years ago and it works pretty well. Not much control (lots of faders but they only control the internal mix, no MIDI capability at all) but the keybed is pretty nice.

I'm also on the road but I had the cabinet for the tube amp I finished building last month shipped to my folks' house so I was able to get it put together today. Might end up stripping it back down when I get home and varnishing the tweed, I haven't decided for sure yet. peaker is a completely uncool but actually really nice sounding 1982 Pyle Driver (probably a 60 watt since it came in a 4x12 that was rated for 200 watts, but I don't know for sure because it doesn't ahve any markings other than the EIA code and a model number that doesn't match any of the stock Pyle model numbers - probably because it was an OEM version for the last generation of Legend amps after they got bought by Gibson and stopped using Celestions). Some variant on these: Fender 5e3 clone with salvaged 6s DE preamp tubes and a 70s Tung Sol rectifier (power tubes are just new JJs since I don't have any interest in burning through expensive old power tubes) Also the best Fuzz Face I've ever built down there by the fan. This is the 7th one I've done, and after a few different original stripboard and point to point layouts I've settled on this one I found online a couple years ago being better than anything I came up with: I move VR-1 (bias) to a panel control and add the input half of the Mike Fuller mod since it's so easy (just a 50k variable resistor right after the input jack, so it can go from theoretically "correct" fuzz face sound to a completely different input load that makes it sound more like a distortion+ or something than a fuzz, and everything in between. Really useful and only one part added. This is the last one I'm going to make though, I've only got one good pair of matched, NOS transistors left and I'm probably going to use them for something more exotic that I haven't decided on yet. I guess that kind of belonged more in the DIY thread. EDIT: the Fuzz Face used Texas Instruments 2G308 GE transistors this time around. Still possible to find them but they're getting pretty scarce. Really good sound, although most people seem to say they clean up unusually well but so far I've found this pair actually cleans up LESS than the other Fuzz Faces I've built (but in a really good way).

It's basically "Tik Tok does the same awful stuff every other social media company does, but this one is from CHIII-NAAAH so here's some spooky music"

Tik Tok sucks, but this video is asinine and sinophobic.

I've been off all other social media (most of it I never got on to begin with) for years, but I can't shake Youtube/Twitch.

Ooooh. I got some cheap monitor stands in a trade a couple years ago but I don't have any space to set them up. They'd be fine if I filled the tubes with sand to stop them from ringing. Anyway, even budget stands are kind of overpriced. If you have access to minimal tools, this is a pretty easy DIY option: https://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/stubby_e.html I used to have a set of them I made, they worked fine. That whole site is quite a relic of crusty old web 1.0 audiophile stuff, but with an emphasis on keeping things as cheap as possible so it's actually pretty useful. I think the turntable stand I built 4 or 5 years ago is based on one of their designs, too.

I use this and it works well and is a lot more solid than I expected for the price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S1V2VN7/ But I had to have a vertical dual monitor setup and not pay much, so my options were really limited. EDIT: of course a couple months later my eighbor gave me a bigger monitor that doesn't have a VESA mount, and the mount adapter I need costs as much as the whole monitor stand so I'm back to keeping the primary monitor on top of a pile of rack gear for now.

As far as I can tell, what happened is the PT10 installer tried to install a really old iLokdriver even though I have the current one installed. Neither the PT10 installer nor the iLok installer ever detected that there was ANY version already installed. When it got to the point where I had to reboot to complete the installation, the old iLok installer ran into some kind of issue because of the current drivers already being loaded and it just broke everything and stopped Windows from booting entirely. I just rolled back the iLok installation completely and everything worked fine, even though the PT10 installer gave me a warning that there was no iLok driver installed (there was). That would be bad for C-tier 90s shareware.

https://www.elektronauts.com/t/a-polished-version-of-merlins-ot-guide-here/42860 Or do what I did and book a show before you actually get it so you have a hard deadline. I just barely learned enough to pull off a semi-improvised, 25 minute set in about 20 days with that method, and I think it worked well. It's easier to not get caught up with trying to do everything when you know in a couple weeks you'll have to be able to pull of something in front of an audience. I've been using it for 4 years now and I'd say I've learned maybe 15% of it really well at this point. I've still never used the arranger. EDIT: I'm also using it in a completely different way now than I did the first year. Almost no overlap.

The whole Save the Kids crypto scam implosion that's unfolding right now is extremely entertaining EDIT: I mean, other than the part where a bunch of mostly teenagers were scammed. That sucks. But the schadenfreude of watching crypto douches and INFLUENCERS fucking themselves is rich.

I'm up to 6 working, 1 that has speed issues but should be fine with a new belt, and 6 more that are less promising (but one or two might still be OK with new belts).

PMD221 Did basic tests on them. 4 work perfectly, 1 or 2 are probably fucked, and the rest might be fine and might not be, a few need belts but they all have various degrees of quiet/muddy audio and it's just down to whether it's cleaning or head alignment (fixable) or head wear (i.e. sell cheap for parts). But even if we didn't sell any for parts and only ended up with four, that's around $60 each and that's still really good. EDIT: also the most messed up one is permanently stuck in record but otherwise seems fine, so if we can't fix the record switch we will probably keep that one, take out the erase head completely and use it as a dedicated sound-on-sound looper.

Nah, they have $10 price stickers on them from the government surplus sale and he turned out to have mutual friends (one of them showed up while we were talking) so I think he was legit. They come from a police dispatch, hopefully they aren't too worn out.